{"id":5578,"date":"2022-01-11T08:11:00","date_gmt":"2022-01-11T06:11:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/floatinginprovence.com\/en\/?p=5578"},"modified":"2022-01-11T14:35:43","modified_gmt":"2022-01-11T12:35:43","slug":"week-in-nice","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/floatinginprovence.com\/en\/blog\/week-in-nice","title":{"rendered":"A week in Nice, and only Nice."},"content":{"rendered":"\n<p>A week in <a href=\"https:\/\/floatinginprovence.com\/en\/blog\/trip\/nice\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Nice,<\/a> just Nice? No. You must have visited <a href=\"https:\/\/floatinginprovence.com\/en\/blog\/boring-in-monaco\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Monaco<\/a> one day, Antibes another, went up to Grasse? Nope. Nice and only Nice.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>What\u2019s a girl in Provence to do during vacance scholaire? Go to the Rivieria. I decided to emancipate myself from my car and take a train on a Sunday afternoon to Nice. I packed the kids and my mother and convinced them to follow me blindly to Nice.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>My plans were loosely scheduled around a week long Theater program for my son and a 3-day art workshop for my daughter. The rest of the time I planned to spend trampling around the old city, dragging my daughter to art museums and palaces, and ensuring my mother had the best week of her life, post-everything when all tourists have left and the first rains arrived. I just want to reduce my existence to a pedestrian range. Like it used to be.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h4 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Day 1: Dripping Ice Cream&#8230;<\/h4>\n\n\n\n<p>The apartment I rented through airbnb, the fruits of my labor after careful calculation, thorough research and patience. Smack in the heart of a the old city, the location could not be better. A minute from the tram station, Park Paillon, Church of Repatriate, everything within a hand\u2019s reach. The experience of living in the old city in one of those really old apartments immaculately renovated in Nice\u2019s historic center throws you back. A precious time when if you wanted to find out what was going, you just stuck your head out of a big window. High ceilings, huge windows, wooden beams, street noise outside. A symphony of locomotive objects, children playing, youth partying, the odd scream or argument, garbage trucks keeping it clean.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>We arrive and as soon as we settle in, thunderstorms knock and it is raining cats and dogs. My mother, tired, I make no allowances for the kids and nudge them out the door to breathe Nice, rain and all. We settle on a pizza meal at one of the restaurants next door. Next, I take them to the famous ice cream vendor on <strong>Place Reparate<\/strong>, so many flavors, hard to choose. Eventually they select Kinder and Rocher. We stagger back to the flat through rain puddles, dripping restaurant awnings, and dripping ice cream in the rain.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery columns-2 is-cropped wp-block-gallery-1 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\"><ul class=\"blocks-gallery-grid\"><li class=\"blocks-gallery-item\"><figure><img fetchpriority=\"high\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"683\" src=\"https:\/\/floatinginprovence.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/Bay-of-Angels-1024x683.jpg\" alt=\"\" data-id=\"5559\" data-link=\"https:\/\/floatinginprovence.com\/en\/bay-of-angels\/\" class=\"wp-image-5559\" srcset=\"https:\/\/floatinginprovence.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/Bay-of-Angels-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/floatinginprovence.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/Bay-of-Angels-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/floatinginprovence.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/Bay-of-Angels-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/floatinginprovence.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/Bay-of-Angels.jpg 1620w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"blocks-gallery-item__caption\">Bay of Angels<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/li><li class=\"blocks-gallery-item\"><figure><img decoding=\"async\" width=\"683\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/floatinginprovence.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/Gate-to-old-city-Nice-e1574433816541-683x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" data-id=\"5565\" data-link=\"https:\/\/floatinginprovence.com\/en\/gate-to-old-city-nice\/\" class=\"wp-image-5565\" srcset=\"https:\/\/floatinginprovence.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/Gate-to-old-city-Nice-e1574433816541-683x1024.jpg 683w, https:\/\/floatinginprovence.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/Gate-to-old-city-Nice-e1574433816541-200x300.jpg 200w, https:\/\/floatinginprovence.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/Gate-to-old-city-Nice-e1574433816541-768x1152.jpg 768w, https:\/\/floatinginprovence.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/Gate-to-old-city-Nice-e1574433816541.jpg 1080w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 683px) 100vw, 683px\" \/><figcaption class=\"blocks-gallery-item__caption\">Gate to the old city<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/li><\/ul><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<h4 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Day 2: Cours Saleya<\/h4>\n\n\n\n<p>Still raining, I traverse the city by foot with my son to bring him to his week long theater workshop. A seemingly simple walk, I am humbled by the implantation of small Taj Mahals which seem to rise out of no where. Yes, these are just apartment buildings, but none like I have seen.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Getting back, I pick up my mother and daughter and head over to <strong>Cours Saleya<\/strong> which today on Monday features a flea and antique market. It reminded me of the flea market in Yafo (Tel Aviv) which I always likened to be \u2018garage sale&#8217; of the dearly departed. A heavy aura. The collection includes all kinds of pins, jewelry, dishes, cutlery, bags. The vendors are on high alert against thieves and just general careless people who might break something with their umbrella (read: my daughter).<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery columns-2 is-cropped wp-block-gallery-2 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\"><ul class=\"blocks-gallery-grid\"><li class=\"blocks-gallery-item\"><figure><img decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"896\" src=\"https:\/\/floatinginprovence.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/All-kinds-of-pins-e1593794519317-1024x896.jpg\" alt=\"\" data-id=\"5556\" data-link=\"https:\/\/floatinginprovence.com\/en\/all-kinds-of-pins\" class=\"wp-image-5556\" srcset=\"https:\/\/floatinginprovence.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/All-kinds-of-pins-e1593794519317-1024x896.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/floatinginprovence.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/All-kinds-of-pins-e1593794519317-300x263.jpg 300w, https:\/\/floatinginprovence.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/All-kinds-of-pins-e1593794519317-768x672.jpg 768w, https:\/\/floatinginprovence.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/All-kinds-of-pins-e1593794519317.jpg 1235w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure><\/li><li class=\"blocks-gallery-item\"><figure><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"683\" src=\"https:\/\/floatinginprovence.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/Flee-and-antique-market-1024x683.jpg\" alt=\"\" data-id=\"5564\" data-link=\"https:\/\/floatinginprovence.com\/en\/flee-and-antique-market\" class=\"wp-image-5564\" srcset=\"https:\/\/floatinginprovence.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/Flee-and-antique-market-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/floatinginprovence.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/Flee-and-antique-market-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/floatinginprovence.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/Flee-and-antique-market-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/floatinginprovence.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/Flee-and-antique-market.jpg 1620w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure><\/li><\/ul><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>All kinds of tiny broaches featuring guitars or flowers, small objects in the shape of owls with no obvious purpose for their existence except that they are pretty to hold and wonder. Indeed, the flea market in Nice is probably more interesting than its \u2018regular\u2019 food market because it features a quantity and range of objects that cannot be found anywhere on earth. It screams of a time when art and \u2018pleasure for the eyes\u2019 was more important.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h4 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Palais Massena<\/h4>\n\n\n\n<p>Tired, my mother wants to head back home for a siesta, ditto my daughter. I leave them both and continue my adventures in high society by visiting Palais Massena. From the outside I am floored by the fact that people can be so rich as to have this \u2018house\u2019 as\u00a0only\u00a0their winter residence!! Inside, I mourn a world lost by budgets and practicality. The opulence, d\u00e9cor, friezes, fresco, paintings, furniture, objects are something out of this world. <br><br>This is a Nice at the end of the 19<sup>th<\/sup>\u00a0century. I was particularly touched by the smoking room. Imagine all the wealthy and important men of the time, retiring to this room after meals to discuss important matters and themselves. I conclude at the end, that life is unfair with some people dripping in wealth and others dripping in their own sweat.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery columns-2 is-cropped wp-block-gallery-3 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\"><ul class=\"blocks-gallery-grid\"><li class=\"blocks-gallery-item\"><figure><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"683\" src=\"https:\/\/floatinginprovence.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/Palace-Massena-1024x683.jpg\" alt=\"\" data-id=\"5569\" data-link=\"https:\/\/floatinginprovence.com\/en\/palace-massena\/\" class=\"wp-image-5569\" srcset=\"https:\/\/floatinginprovence.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/Palace-Massena-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/floatinginprovence.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/Palace-Massena-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/floatinginprovence.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/Palace-Massena-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/floatinginprovence.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/Palace-Massena.jpg 1620w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"blocks-gallery-item__caption\">Palais Massena<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/li><li class=\"blocks-gallery-item\"><figure><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"576\" src=\"https:\/\/floatinginprovence.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/Place-Massena-1024x576.jpg\" alt=\"\" data-id=\"5571\" data-link=\"https:\/\/floatinginprovence.com\/en\/place-massena\/\" class=\"wp-image-5571\" srcset=\"https:\/\/floatinginprovence.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/Place-Massena-1024x576.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/floatinginprovence.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/Place-Massena-300x169.jpg 300w, https:\/\/floatinginprovence.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/Place-Massena-768x432.jpg 768w, https:\/\/floatinginprovence.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/Place-Massena.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"blocks-gallery-item__caption\">Plaza Massena shining post-rain<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/li><\/ul><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>But history, in case you are new to this business, is written by the rich and powerful, those who won the battles, those who could afford the precious position to stand in the front lines of history. Needless to say, run, don\u2019t walk to Palais Massena when you are in Nice.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><\/p>\n\n\n\n<h4 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Day 3: The bay where angels live<\/h4>\n\n\n\n<p>The morning started with a visit to our neighbor next door <strong>Church of St. Repatriate<\/strong>, dedicated to the young girl who brought the angels to the bay at Nice. Admiring the baroque architecture and ornamentation I wondered who was the church trying to impress? All the money that poured into making this chapel or these twisted marble columns. I really wondered if it was to impress visitors and to win their devotion or to impress themselves. No matter, we left impressed and headed straight to the bay of angels.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery columns-2 is-cropped wp-block-gallery-4 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\"><ul class=\"blocks-gallery-grid\"><li class=\"blocks-gallery-item\"><figure><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"683\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/floatinginprovence.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/Baroque-Alter-e1574433633478-683x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" data-id=\"5557\" data-link=\"https:\/\/floatinginprovence.com\/en\/baroque-alter\/\" class=\"wp-image-5557\" srcset=\"https:\/\/floatinginprovence.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/Baroque-Alter-e1574433633478-683x1024.jpg 683w, https:\/\/floatinginprovence.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/Baroque-Alter-e1574433633478-200x300.jpg 200w, https:\/\/floatinginprovence.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/Baroque-Alter-e1574433633478-768x1152.jpg 768w, https:\/\/floatinginprovence.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/Baroque-Alter-e1574433633478.jpg 1080w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 683px) 100vw, 683px\" \/><\/figure><\/li><li class=\"blocks-gallery-item\"><figure><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"683\" src=\"https:\/\/floatinginprovence.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/Baroque-church-Nice-1024x683.jpg\" alt=\"\" data-id=\"5558\" data-link=\"https:\/\/floatinginprovence.com\/en\/baroque-church-nice\/\" class=\"wp-image-5558\" srcset=\"https:\/\/floatinginprovence.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/Baroque-church-Nice-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/floatinginprovence.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/Baroque-church-Nice-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/floatinginprovence.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/Baroque-church-Nice-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/floatinginprovence.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/Baroque-church-Nice.jpg 1620w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure><\/li><\/ul><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>The bay stretches as far as the eye can see with it\u2019s stony beach and light blue waters. Late in October, people are swimming on this particular warm day. The <strong>Promenade des Anglais<\/strong> is laden with tourists, runners, children on vacation, bike riders. A couple stopped to ask if I was from around here, I answered \u201cI guess I am\u201d. They didn\u2019t know how to find the bus station, I replied they must traverse the port.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>The Bay of Angels and the Promenade of the English. It\u2019s curious. The English pranced up and down the sea front decked in their best and basked in the glorious sun that Nice delivered to them, sorely lacking back home in England. In return, they lavished Nice with money and power and solidified her position as a supreme tourist destination. Perhaps the English were Nice\u2019s modern angels who ushered in a new era. I lower my head as I remember the 86 angels who spilled their blood on the Promenade des Anglais on Bastille Day 2016.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h4 class=\"wp-block-heading\">En route to Port Limpia<\/h4>\n\n\n\n<p>We carried on to the famous \u201cI Love Nice\u201d sign. We take pictures of each other and we feel that, yes, we do love Nice, it\u2019s not forced, it\u2019s just what we feel. The Angel\u2019s Bay behind us as far as the eye can see, the old city to our right, the muscle of the Mediterranean to our left, and above, the \u2018rock\u2019 of Nice where it all began.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery columns-1 is-cropped wp-block-gallery-5 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\"><ul class=\"blocks-gallery-grid\"><li class=\"blocks-gallery-item\"><figure><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"683\" src=\"https:\/\/floatinginprovence.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/I-love-Nice-1024x683.jpg\" alt=\"\" data-id=\"5567\" data-link=\"https:\/\/floatinginprovence.com\/en\/i-love-nice\/\" class=\"wp-image-5567\" srcset=\"https:\/\/floatinginprovence.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/I-love-Nice-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/floatinginprovence.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/I-love-Nice-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/floatinginprovence.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/I-love-Nice-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/floatinginprovence.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/I-love-Nice.jpg 1620w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure><\/li><\/ul><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Rounding the corner and descending to <strong>Port Limpia<\/strong>, I take back what I said about Cassis being the most crowded port in the Riviera. I place the crown on the head of Nice. Medium sized cruise ships squeeze by and block the port. Fancy yachts can only watch and hope. Who do you have to bribe here to get a parking spot? The port is small, this isn\u2019t <a href=\"https:\/\/floatinginprovence.com\/en\/blog\/toulon-not-toulouse\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Toulon<\/a> and there is no place to go. I observe beautiful red buildings with green shutters flanking the port. I dream about having a flat in this building overlooking the port. Yes, the one on the second floor with the cute ornamented balcony.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>The afternoon, I dump my daughter at her cute art workshop run by Isabelle in her Atelier on rue Logia in the old city and run over to the other side of town to <strong>Nice Etoile<\/strong>, Nice&#8217;s shopping mall. I rush over to Sergent Major and enjoy up to 40% off on stunning children\u2019s clothing. I spend over 140 euros on high quality French children\u2019s clothing and mourn the fact that next year my son will out grow the maximum size in their collection.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h4 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Day 4: Palais Lascaris<\/h4>\n\n\n\n<p>The rain has returned but I like it, the colors change, become darker and Nice shines in wetness. I remember scorching hot days in the summer and it&#8217;s a relief. As such, I decide to go with my mother and daughter to visit Palais Lascaris, an incredible villa featuring civil baroque architecture. My daughter is impressed by the ancient musical instrument and keeps looking for the king\u2019s throne as she thinks this is a king\u2019s palace. It might as well could be with the lavishly decorated rooms and ceilings.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery aligncenter columns-2 wp-block-gallery-6 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\"><ul class=\"blocks-gallery-grid\"><li class=\"blocks-gallery-item\"><figure><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"676\" src=\"https:\/\/floatinginprovence.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/nice-baroque-1024x676.jpg\" alt=\"\" data-id=\"5568\" data-link=\"https:\/\/floatinginprovence.com\/en\/nice-baroque\/\" class=\"wp-image-5568\" srcset=\"https:\/\/floatinginprovence.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/nice-baroque-1024x676.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/floatinginprovence.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/nice-baroque-300x198.jpg 300w, https:\/\/floatinginprovence.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/nice-baroque-768x507.jpg 768w, https:\/\/floatinginprovence.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/nice-baroque.jpg 1635w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure><\/li><li class=\"blocks-gallery-item\"><figure><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"683\" src=\"https:\/\/floatinginprovence.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/10\/ceiling2-1024x683.jpg\" alt=\"\" data-id=\"4333\" data-link=\"https:\/\/floatinginprovence.com\/en\/trip\/nice\/ceiling2\/\" class=\"wp-image-4333\" srcset=\"https:\/\/floatinginprovence.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/10\/ceiling2-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/floatinginprovence.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/10\/ceiling2-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/floatinginprovence.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/10\/ceiling2-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/floatinginprovence.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/10\/ceiling2.jpg 1620w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure><\/li><\/ul><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Though I could spend hours here investigating door ornamentation and the family tree of the Ducs of Savoy, more than 40 minutes is enough for my companions and we head out in the direction of the meat district. My mother is impressed by the long lines at the boucheries and the inexpensive chicken compared to Israel. We are all turned off by the full bodied displays of pigs and rabbits.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Inexpensive cotton scarves, as is the tradition in the autumn, are on display. Irresistible we purchase a few. Carrying on past the sea food and Italian restaurants to the famous Place Garibaldi. My daughter coos at the statute of a baby featured in the central fountain. I explain this is Garibaldi a child of France and Italy, born in Nice. We are surrounded by beautiful building featuring the typical Nicoise Trompe Oeil, it takes my mother a few minutes to accurately discern that.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h4 class=\"wp-block-heading\"> Day 5: Chagall wuz here<\/h4>\n\n\n\n<p>I begin the day with the usual pilgrimage to the boulangerie to buy a fresh baguette as is the tradition. I like this time when the sinuous canyons of the old city are still dark and wet. Shops are closed and only the odd cafes or fish stalls show signs of life.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>After I drop off my son \u201cchez Sophie\u201d I scuttle back \u2018home\u2019 to find both my mom and daughter not so motivated to venture out under gray skies. I don\u2019t push. I trek my way back up to north Nice to visit the Chagall Museum. From the outside it doesn\u2019t look like much and there is no reminder of the pretty Nicoise architecture. An uninspiring concrete building from the 1970\u2019s. Inside, the space is a modern mess as well. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>But like I always say, it\u2019s not the building itself but who is inside the building that counts. And inside we find the most impressive works of art by Marc Chagall. Full of color and allegory, contrasts and symbolism they tell biblical stories to inspire all mankind and hauntingly display the plight of the Jewish people. Even if you are not an art buff, and you must choose one art museum during your visit to Provence\/Riviera this should be it. The audio guide in English does a fine and simple job of guiding through each of the major works displayed. I am a bit shocked as to how little protection is afforded these masterly works with little to no barrier between the paintings and prancing little kids.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery aligncenter columns-2 is-cropped wp-block-gallery-7 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\"><ul class=\"blocks-gallery-grid\"><li class=\"blocks-gallery-item\"><figure><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"683\" src=\"https:\/\/floatinginprovence.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/Chagal-1024x683.jpg\" alt=\"\" data-id=\"5561\" data-link=\"https:\/\/floatinginprovence.com\/en\/chagal\/\" class=\"wp-image-5561\" srcset=\"https:\/\/floatinginprovence.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/Chagal-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/floatinginprovence.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/Chagal-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/floatinginprovence.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/Chagal-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/floatinginprovence.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/Chagal.jpg 1620w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"blocks-gallery-item__caption\">Marc Chagall Museum<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/li><li class=\"blocks-gallery-item\"><figure><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"927\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/floatinginprovence.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/Stunning-building-Nice-927x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" data-id=\"5574\" data-link=\"https:\/\/floatinginprovence.com\/en\/stunning-building-nice\/\" class=\"wp-image-5574\" srcset=\"https:\/\/floatinginprovence.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/Stunning-building-Nice-927x1024.jpg 927w, https:\/\/floatinginprovence.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/Stunning-building-Nice-272x300.jpg 272w, https:\/\/floatinginprovence.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/Stunning-building-Nice-768x848.jpg 768w, https:\/\/floatinginprovence.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/Stunning-building-Nice.jpg 1080w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 927px) 100vw, 927px\" \/><figcaption class=\"blocks-gallery-item__caption\">Another stunning building in Nice<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/li><\/ul><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<h4 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Pretty pretty buildings<\/h4>\n\n\n\n<p>By now it&#8217;s raining quite hard, but no choice I must trek down to the old city to take my daughter to her art class \u201cchez Isabelle\u201d. I cut through the north city on my way down to the train station. I lower my head and hold on tight to my umbrella. Yet for all my efforts I cannot escape the beauty that besieges my eyes. Seemingly random apartment buildings take up residence on ordinary streets. But the buildings themselves are extra ordinarily beautiful. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>I am so moved by how the Nicoise respect and pay homage to their history, history that they rightfully recognize is omnipresent even in civil buildings. I stand frozen in the rain by the beautiful facade. Who conjured up such dreamy palaces for the ordinary middle class? How inspired one must be to walk in and out of this building each day! How well it is restored, staying true to its origins, how well kept and clean. Here residents respect the city decree that no ugly air conditioning units will deface it, regardless of the immense discomfort suffered for months each summer. I love the micro-history inherent in buildings. And imagine the Nice bourgeois of the north city back in the days inhabiting these buildings with their suits and white dresses.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h4 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Talpiot Market, Haifa<\/h4>\n\n\n\n<p>It takes me back to 2015, when I fell in love with an Arab building in Talpiot Market, Haifa. I decided to buy the flat dating back from 1933 and to restore it to its former glory. The agent warned me the neighborhood is tough. I listened but the heart longed for high ceilings and flowered tiles. What followed was 2 years of agony between the city that didn\u2019t want to clean or impose the order and laws that they passed, apathetic neighbors, unchecked crime, unchecked littering and garbage disposal. It was the wild west and nobody wanted to touch it, not the cops or the city. With a heavy heart this proved too much for me to manage and I was left with no choice but to sell my piece of history to an investor from Tel Aviv.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>There was no honor, nobody respected history, respected the structure which screamed of a different time when opulent Arabs strolled around its surrounding fruitful gardens. Dilapidated, despite my best efforts, the building stood there scarred and battered by residents who don\u2019t care, or care to understand.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>But in Nice the building comes before its inhabitants. They worship history because they know that without history, without roots, we are like autumn leaves blowing in the wind.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h4 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Day 6: Cannes<\/h4>\n\n\n\n<p>The 6<sup>th<\/sup>\u00a0day in Nice was actually spent half in Cannes. An Israeli family contacted me to guide them in Cannes. I answered and took the train half an hour westwards to the city of the stars. It\u2019s the end of the season and I meet the family under cloudy skies dressed in a sweater. I remember scorching days and hordes of tourists just 2 months ago. I prefer Cannes like this, quieter, back to the basics.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>As I wait for the family at the gate, dozens and dozens of stickered cruise tourists are led to their respective buses by shore excursions operators. They pay twice as much if not more to be in a bus with 50 other tourists, guided by weary lecturers, often with no voice amplification device. Really, I am not here to toot my own horn or say that I&#8217;m the best guide. But almost any other private guide outside the cruise ship machine would be better. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery columns-2 is-cropped wp-block-gallery-8 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\"><ul class=\"blocks-gallery-grid\"><li class=\"blocks-gallery-item\"><figure><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"683\" src=\"https:\/\/floatinginprovence.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/Yoga-Park-Chateau-1024x683.jpg\" alt=\"\" data-id=\"5575\" data-link=\"https:\/\/floatinginprovence.com\/en\/yoga-park-chateau\" class=\"wp-image-5575\" srcset=\"https:\/\/floatinginprovence.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/Yoga-Park-Chateau-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/floatinginprovence.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/Yoga-Park-Chateau-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/floatinginprovence.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/Yoga-Park-Chateau-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/floatinginprovence.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/Yoga-Park-Chateau.jpg 1620w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure><\/li><li class=\"blocks-gallery-item\"><figure><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"683\" src=\"https:\/\/floatinginprovence.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/Climbing-parc-de-Chateau-1024x683.jpg\" alt=\"\" data-id=\"5563\" data-link=\"https:\/\/floatinginprovence.com\/en\/climbing-parc-de-chateau\" class=\"wp-image-5563\" srcset=\"https:\/\/floatinginprovence.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/Climbing-parc-de-Chateau-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/floatinginprovence.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/Climbing-parc-de-Chateau-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/floatinginprovence.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/Climbing-parc-de-Chateau-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/floatinginprovence.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/Climbing-parc-de-Chateau.jpg 1620w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure><\/li><\/ul><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<h4 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Day 7: Park Chateau<\/h4>\n\n\n\n<p>It&#8217;s our last day and before we start heading back I spend the morning climbing up to Park Chateau with the kids. The hike is not hard and they race past me as I admire the views. The park itself is very interesting with lots of trails to explore old castle ruins destroyed in 1706 by Louis the 14<sup>th<\/sup>. Shame. A nice playground for the kids and a small cafe to sit and have a snack or a drink. A recent archelogical dig exposed a church from back in the days. The park is large and interesting enough with 360 degree views that one can easily pass a good half a day there.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>But the kids are eager to trek back down, and a good Mexican restaurant awaits us. The sun is out and my daughter grabs my camera and begins to randomly shoot corners of Nice. I think, this is a waste of time but she has a great eye and does something clever as she strolls through the narrow streets. She turns the camera upwards towards the skies and catches a canopy of umbrellas.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\"><figure class=\"aligncenter is-resized\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/floatinginprovence.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/Canopy-Umbrellas-1024x683.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-5560\" width=\"512\" height=\"342\" srcset=\"https:\/\/floatinginprovence.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/Canopy-Umbrellas-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/floatinginprovence.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/Canopy-Umbrellas-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/floatinginprovence.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/Canopy-Umbrellas-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/floatinginprovence.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/Canopy-Umbrellas.jpg 1620w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 512px) 100vw, 512px\" \/><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n<p>And as such, it&#8217;s recommended when walking, strolling, standing or sitting in Nice, to always lift one\u2019s head. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Well, it&#8217;s a rule that is probably advisable to follow in general.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>A week in Nice, just Nice? No. You must have visited Monaco one day, Antibes another, went up to Grasse? Nope. Nice and only Nice. What\u2019s a girl in Provence to do during vacance scholaire? Go to the Rivieria. I decided to emancipate myself from my car and take a train on a Sunday afternoon [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":5572,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[442],"tags":[473,475,474,443,438,449],"class_list":["post-5578","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-riviera","tag-art","tag-market","tag-museum","tag-nice","tag-port","tag-riviera"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v25.2 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/wordpress\/plugins\/seo\/ -->\n<title>A week in Nice, and only Nice. - Floating in Provence<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"What to do in Nice for a week? 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