So these are the dog days of summer and it’s hot. Very hot in Provence. Alas, I have to do something with my kids, but I can’t stand the oppressive heat. I decide that to cool off I will stitch a vacation combining the coolness of underground caves with some canyon kayaking. Sounds good, no? But where can I find both?
Nestled in the heart of France, the Ardeche region stands as a testament to the captivating blend of rich history, stunning natural landscapes, and cultural treasures. Known for its dramatic gorges, ancient caves, and picturesque villages, Ardeche paints a vibrant picture that beckons travelers seeking an immersive experience.
Historical Tapestry
Ardeche boasts a history that stretches back millennia. Traces of human habitation in this region date to prehistoric times, with evidence found in its renowned caves. The Chauvet Cave, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, presents an extraordinary collection of Paleolithic paintings from over 36,000 years ago. The oldest known collection on earth. They offer a glimpse into the artistic prowess of our ancient ancestors.
Moving through the ages, Ardeche witnessed the Roman presence, evidenced by the Pont d’Arc, a stunning natural arch that spans the Ardèche River, echoing the architectural marvels of that era. The region’s history resonates through medieval castles, churches, and fortified villages, each structure whispering tales of a bygone era.
The Majestic Gorges of Ardèche
The jewel of Ardeche’s natural wonders is undoubtedly the Ardèche Gorges. Carved by the Ardèche River over millions of years, these awe-inspiring limestone cliffs stand tall, creating a dramatic and breathtaking landscape. The iconic Pont d’Arc, a natural limestone arch, acts as a gateway to this mesmerizing canyon.
Traveling through the gorges, whether by kayak, canoe, or hiking trails, offers an unparalleled adventure. The serpentine river winds through the towering cliffs, revealing hidden caves, lush vegetation, and stunning viewpoints at every turn. The gorges, a haven for outdoor enthusiasts, provide a playground for exploration, inviting visitors to immerse themselves in its raw, natural beauty.
There are dozens of kayak rental shops offering the best way to explore the gorge, ranging from half a day to two or three days. For us, the river was at an all time low in August so often we got stuck on rocks and needed to push a little. On the bright side, we avoided the season where melting snows raise the water level significantly and you will have to face a multitude of raging rapids.
Into the bowels of the earth
Ardeche’s subterranean world is adorned with fascinating caves, each telling its own story. Beyond the Chauvet Cave, other notable caverns like the Aven d’Orgnac and the Grotte de la Madeleine beckon curious souls. These caves showcase magnificent stalactites, stalagmites, and underground formations, offering an otherworldly experience that captivates visitors with its mysterious allure.
The caves provide a much needed relief from the heat as the temperature inside averages around 20 degrees celsius. The French are very good at making the inaccessible accessible. The caves are equipped with metal stairs and walkways, non slip. In all cases you are guided by one of the cave guides, so you can’t just wander on your own. We are treated to beautiful light shows, incredible formations millions of years in the making, and paintings by cave dwellers thousands of years ago. It seems like I have entered a scene from Lord of the Rings as the cave’s volume and depth are imperceptible. She doesn’t give all her secrets away and keeps some for herself.
I think about those men or women who were driven to do such paintings. We call it art. Not sure they will call it that. It was a way to record their lives, achieve immortality perhaps. Or simply to kill boredom during the long winter months. They might have painted them on outside cliffs in the sun where they can see. But their choice to sequester and paint inside the caves is a testament to their need to be remembered, for their paintings, their story to endure. They were storytellers first and foremost.
This fact will motivate me after the trip to keep working on my stories and screenplays whether or not they see light of day in my lifetime. There are always the lifetimes of others to discover them.
Quaint villages
Scattered throughout the landscape are charming villages and towns, each with its unique character. Balazuc, perched on a cliff overlooking the Ardèche River, exudes medieval charm with its narrow streets and stone houses. Vogue, designated as one of the “Most Beautiful Villages of France,” boasts a stunning castle and panoramic views of the surrounding countryside.
Meanwhile, Labeaume enchants visitors with its picturesque setting along the river, adorned with historic buildings and a sense of tranquility. Exploring these villages provides a glimpse into local life, inviting travelers to savor the region’s culture and warmth.
We decide to stay in Barjac due to it’s close proximity to the gorge and many caves. To add to the authentic atmosphere we lodged in Les Chambres du Clos des Capucins, a converted monastery from the middle ages equipped with most importantly – air conditioning and private parking. The host was a bit grumpy that we didn’t eat at her restaurant, but we preferred discovering different eateries in the stony village.
Another day we stayed in a hamlet called Rochegude in an old farm house called La Bastide Cévenole with it’s huge massive rooms and a bathroom you can play basketball in. It’s a B&B with only 3 rooms to rent, but like I said – massive. The owner explained as his wife is ill he is selling the property. I think about it for just a second, but really it’s too far and too remote. He runs to the bakery to buy some fresh baked goods for our breakfast. For dinner, we crossed the street to the only restaurant where we dined with all other tourists. Good thing we got there early as it fills up quickly being the only place to eat.
This hamlet, though, I will always remember for the endless sunflower fields just behind the restaurant, high like trees, and wide like an ocean. I take endless shots and we pose for many selfies. Yes, I annoyed the kids with my enthusiasm for sunflowers. But, hey, what do they know?
Until the death
We made our way back to Provence by stopping at Nimes and visiting the famous Roman arena where gladiators, like the cave painters, sought their own immortality, but here by fighting to the death.
It is a somber reminder of man’s quest for greatness, to be remembered at all costs. And perhaps also our innate leaning toward violence as part of human nature. We rose from animals and as civilised as we’ve become, some things never die.
I say this, while at the same time, animals never paint or create music. Ardeche is officially another department and another world, but just bordering Provence.
It’s a wonder to discover and offers an immersive experience that lingers in the hearts of all who wander through its captivating terrain. A journey through time by the gorges, cliffs, caves, monuments, villages, and…sunflower fields.
