The Valley of Wonders, or Vallée des Merveilles in French, is a spellbinding landscape within Mercantour National Park renowned for its ancient rock engravings, rugged trails, and breathtaking vistas.
July is now over and the end of August beckons us to return to our beloved Mercantour. Here I feel that the kids have now ‘graduated’ and we can do a real trek in from mountain hut to mountain hut and truly experience the park.
Traversing the park’s trails unveils a kaleidoscope of landscapes—rolling meadows adorned with vibrant wildflowers in the spring, dense forests painted with autumnal hues in the fall, and shimmering lakes reflecting the surrounding peaks all year round. The Alpes-Maritimes and Alpes-de-Haute-Provence regions converge here, gifting visitors with a mosaic of ecosystems.
Cultural Treasures Amidst Nature’s Bounty
For this trip I decide to do things differently. We will go by train. First train to Nice and from there we will take the Wonder Train to the mountains. Understand that the The Wonder Train is a very slow train that takes two hours from Nice and passes by iconic villages, hugging gorges high above the Roya river, and finishing up in Tende eventually. It is – like the name implies – a wonder to experience. Never a dull moment on this train. I guarantee you will not know which side of the train to sit on.
Mercantour is steeped in cultural heritage. The park is dotted with ancient stone villages and chapels, showcasing the region’s traditional architecture and way of life. Visitors can immerse themselves in the local culture, discovering the history and customs of the communities that have thrived amidst these stunning landscapes for centuries. In the summer there is even a free tour guide on the Train of Wonders who comments on what we are seeing. I loved it but my kids just wanted peace and quiet after an early wake up.
Stage 1: Lac de Meches and the mines
We arrive by train to Saint-Dalmas de Tende and from there we take a bus shuttle to Lac de Mesches. From there it was a short hike to our first guesthouse Neige & Merveilles. The guesthouse is situated on a site which used to house many miners. The Neige & Merveilles association prides itself on tolerance and sustainable tourism. It hosts volunteers from all over the world who come to this hamlet to work and contribute. If there’s any place you should give your money to, it’s this family friendly place. And of course, if you have time you can join their guided tours to the mines up above.
Today we are given our own room with bunk beds. The views over the torrent Vallon de la Miniere are great. Oh how I missed the sound of roaring waters. We use their kitchen to cook and lighten out load. We brought the bare minimum in terms of clothes and food. No sleeping bags in the hot summer, only liners as all Gites and Refuges provide blankets. If I learned anything over my years of hiking it’s to minimise at all costs.
At the pub we find many books and games and a small shop. We buy some more items for the days to come and play a good game of darts. My phone doesn’t work and Internet connection is only around the pub, which is why everyone gathers around there. Alas, we are on vacation, but my reservation system keeps beeping. I respond to some, and miss some other clients. Can’t have it all.
Stage 2: Refuge des Merveilles
In the morning we have no more bread for lunch. I try to buy a loaf from the kitchen but he doesn’t want to sell me one. He just gives it to me! God, how I missed mountain people.
Day two, we spent leisurely hiking up to Refuge de Merveilles, going slowly but surely over 700 meters through the valley following the lush and wide river. Eventually, the ascent flattens and we reach a huge rocky meadow with a lake and a wooden bridge. We cross it and set our eyes on the iconic mountain hut, quite large, right on the lake.
We have lunch in the dining room with our free bread and order some hot drinks. I retire to rest in the communal room we were given with bunk beds. At night, I cook some pasta on the terrace. I want to teach the kids the value of being self sufficient, plus lighten the load. The dining room was completely mobbed by trekkers of all shapes and styles. We waited patiently. Then, descended there again to order desert and wine after which made the night oh so sweet.
From Refuge de Marveilles we have now officially entered the Vallée des Merveilles protected area. This is the most famous part of the park and with reason.
Stage 3: The Enchanting Valley of Wonders
Hiking through the Valley of Wonders is a journey into a realm of wonderment. The trails wind through picturesque landscapes, meandering alongside glistening streams, and ascending through lush alpine meadows adorned with colorful wildflowers in the summer months. As one ventures deeper, the scenery transforms, revealing towering cliffs and rocky outcrops that create an otherworldly ambiance.
The Archeological Marvels
What sets the Valley of Wonders apart is its rich archeological heritage. Adorning the valley’s rocks are over 40,000 prehistoric engravings, dating back to the Bronze Age. These enigmatic carvings depict scenes of animals, symbols, and human figures, offering a glimpse into the lives and beliefs of ancient civilizations that once roamed these lands.
Respect for the environment and the preservation of this archeological treasure are paramount. Visitors are encouraged to adhere to designated trails and follow responsible hiking practices to ensure the conservation of both the natural landscape and the invaluable historical relics scattered throughout the valley. And without fault, as soon as we leave the Refuge, a park ranger forbids me to walk with a walking stick so as not to damage the engravings. If you really need a walking stick, wood sticks are allowed but not metal ones with the pointy tip.
A Transformative Experience
Hiking through the Valley of Wonders is not merely a physical journey but a transformative experience—a fusion of nature’s raw beauty and humanity’s ancient history. It’s an opportunity to traverse landscapes unchanged for millennia, to walk in the footsteps of ancient civilisations, and to be humbled by the vastness and timelessness of the natural world.
We continue hiking through rock engravings arriving at mountain pass called Baisse de Valmasque at 2549 meters. The weather has turned. It is cloudy, dark and windy and threatens to rain. But the next refuge is still at least 1.5 hours away. We descend as quickly as we can on the other side, and traverse the three lakes, going up and down, up and down. I feel rain drops and urge the kids to go quick as we didn’t bring any rain gear and don’t really have a change of clothes.
Alas we arrive at Refuge Valmasque. It is tiny and so cute, reminding me of mountain huts in Nepal. My daughter plays with the grazing donkeys who bring supplies up and down to the refuge. We spend the rest of the day eating and playing Rummikub with no phone connection. Old school the way it used to be.
It should be noted that in high summer each refuge has an online reservation system. But these can easily be cancelled due to weather. We didn’t make reservations and just winged it as I wasn’t sure with kids if they’ll make it. Then you can always ask at one refuge to radio another and reserve a spot (as phones don’t work if you remember). Anyhow, people are really accommodating and friendly. The code of mountain people 🙂
Stage 4: Descent to Casterino
The next day we come back down all the way to Casterino. On the way we stop at a monastery converted into a reintegration house for the handicapped and mentally challenged. I didn’t know that and wondered why the cold shoulder at the restaurant? Finally, the host explains and we are served our well deserved burger meals.
The Casterino hamlet and Baisse de Fontanalba deserves its own exploration as it is boasting with trailheads and good hotels and guesthouses. Another time. We take the bus back to the big train station again in Nice. We miss the mountain people we met and are rudely thrust back into civilisation. I am reminded again why I love the mountains – the people there are made differently.
In summary, whether seeking adrenaline-fueled adventures or serene moments of reflection, Mercantour National Park offers an escape from the hustle and bustle of everyday life. Its untamed beauty and tranquility create an atmosphere that leaves an indelible mark on all who venture into its embrace. I’ll be back next summer for sure to explore a different area with my growing kids who are beginning to shame me on the trails.
