The Roman Theatre of Orange
Tucked away in the heart of Provence, the city of Orange boasts a treasure that transports visitors back to the grandeur of ancient Rome—the Roman Theatre of Orange. This architectural marvel, remarkably preserved through the centuries, stands as a testament to Roman ingenuity and cultural richness.
Hmm…I am no stranger to Provence and, yet, it took me eight years to get to Orange. There was always something else to see, somewhere else to be. But alas, on this short school vacation of all-saints, we packed ourselves onto the train and headed to Orange. Finally!
From the train station we walked through the unimpressive outskirts of Orange, slowly entering the old village from the middle ages. What is it they say? All roads lead to Rome? So in Orange, all roads lead to the massive theatre. And soon enough a great wall rises before us, with its arches and walls carrying its injuries of the ages.
A Glimpse into Roman Splendor
Constructed in the early 1st century AD under Emperor Augustus, the theatre was designed to entertain and edify the Roman colony of Arausio. Its imposing façade stretches 103 meters wide and soars 37 meters high, earning it the admiration of King Louis XIV, who reportedly deemed it “the most beautiful wall in my kingdom”.
The theatre could accommodate up to 9,000 spectators, who gathered to enjoy a variety of performances—from mime and pantomime to poetry readings and farcical plays. The stage wall, or scaenae frons, adorned with columns, friezes, and niches, not only provided a stunning backdrop but also enhanced the acoustics, allowing even whispers to reach the upper tiers.
Les Secrets du Théâtre
And soon enough we were climbing up and down the seats. We can’t decide which is the better view? Was it better to watch from below or above? All aspects are good, but the best was a virtual reality presentation, “Les Secrets du Théâtre”, which offered a captivating journey through the theatre’s storied past.
A small room in the guts of the complex, we were seated with some twenty others and fashioned a visor over our eyes. Soon we were transported back in time to the best rendition of the theatre—-the one from within, with us as live spectators!
Resilience Through Time
Over the centuries, the theatre faced periods of neglect and repurposing. In the Middle Ages, it served as a fortress and shelter during times of conflict. It wasn’t until the 19th century that restoration efforts, led by Prosper Mérimée and architect Auguste Caristie, began to revive its former glory.
Today, the theatre is not only a monument of historical significance but also a vibrant cultural venue. It hosts the annual Chorégies d’Orange, France’s oldest opera festival, attracting renowned artists and audiences from around the world .
An American Diner in an Orange Place
We check into the apartment (“Maison de ville atypique”) we rented for two nights in the old city. It is very unique and atypical, but perhaps typical for the times. It is on four levels, each level one room, joined by a narrow spiralling staircase, complete with old beams and uneven steps! I take the master bedroom on the first level. The kitchen being on the second level, I push my teens up to the 3rd and 4th levels with a large living room and sleeping area. How great to have a whole floor between us! It is bliss. I pour myself a glass of wine and check emails.
The kitchen is large and well equipped but we made plans to meet friends at an American diner type of restaurant (Academie De Billard) with pool tables and great burgers. So we do a typical American meal in Orange. But hey, don’t hate us—-we live in France and just so desperate for anything resembling a real American diner…
Vaison-la-Romaine: Another Layer of Roman Time
The following morning we take the local bus to the nearby town of Vaison-la-Romaine—another extraordinary portal into the Roman world. Often overlooked in favor of more famous Provençal destinations, Vaison quietly harbors one of the most extensive archaeological sites in France.
Walking through the lower town is like drifting through two millennia at once. We soon find the remains of Roman villas, streets, baths, and even a theatre. The sheer scale of the excavated area—over 15 hectares—is a reminder that this was once a flourishing Roman settlement. Look closely and you’ll see mosaic floors, plumbing systems, and column fragments, all whispering the story of lives once lived here.
But the town’s magic doesn’t end with Rome.
The village at the top
We cross the ancient Roman bridge over the Ouvèze River, and enter the medieval upper town, a maze of steep cobbled lanes that spiral upward toward the citadel. This perched village is straight out of a storybook—stone houses framed by lavender and rosemary, shuttered windows painted Provençal blue, and quiet squares where cats nap.
At the top, the ruins of the 12th-century citadel keep watch over the valley. The view from here is breathtaking: vineyards, cypress trees, and the jagged outline of Mont Ventoux in the distance. It’s the kind of place where time seems to slow down—or perhaps collapse entirely into a single, golden Provençal autumn moment.
As we begin our descent our friends from last night arrive fashionably late. We descend with them meandering through to the lower city. They are less impressed by Roman ruins and more by the inviting pizzeria.
We part ways after as they jump in their car and we jump on the bus. At night, I find myself again at the American diner. And why not? Back in Ollioules/Toulon we don’t have this sort of place.
Arc de Triumph
Bellies full we cannot fathom the climb up to our super quad-plex and need to walk it off. Night has fallen and we head out to the Arc de Triumph of Orange which shines like a pink lavender beacon for all to see.
For once I don’t google the monument and remain content to understand that it is ‘another’ arc gate to celebrate a Roman victory, and that a long time ago triumphant armies passed under it. How odd, I think, this tradition of celebration—by passing under a stone gate. Just a gate. Like a portal—you enter a man, and emerge—a legend.
