Mercantour National Park is nestled in the southeastern part of France, bordering Italy. This natural haven is a testament to the country’s diverse and breathtaking landscapes. Spanning over 650 square kilometers, Mercantour National Park boasts a mesmerizing blend of rugged mountains, serene valleys, pristine lakes, and dense forests. The park is part of the larger Mercantour-Argentera Biosphere Reserve, which harbors an incredible array of flora and fauna, making it a haven for nature enthusiasts and wildlife lovers alike.
Unveiling the Majesty of the Landscape
I am no stranger to Mercantour, having visited again and again over the last 15 years. It is my favourite place to hike in France. Why? Maybe because it’s the closest to me? No. I’m not lazy. I think it’s because the mountains rise from the sea and I find them more rugged, wild and less frequented.
The park’s centerpiece is its majestic mountain range, which includes the iconic Mercantour massif and reaches its pinnacle at Mont Gélas, standing tall at over 3,140 meters. The rugged terrain is a playground for outdoor adventurers, offering a myriad of activities from hiking and mountaineering to skiing in the winter months.
A summer sanctuary
In the summer it is my favourite escape from the heat. Going up to 2000 meters, it is still 25 degrees in the hight of the summer. But better than 37 down on the coast.
As a tour guide, I couldn’t very well just disappear the whole summer and sequester in the mountains. So I break it up. In July I visited one part of Mercantour: Saint-Martin-Vésubie and Madone de Fenestre. And in August, another.
Lost in July
In July, I find a few days free to pack the car and my tweens and head to towards Mercantour via Nice. The plan was to drive all the way up to Madone de Fenestre and stay at the refuge there where I ordered 3 nights. Many hiking trails surround this point and it’s a good initiation for my tweens as you can drive all the way to the refuge and do day hikes from there.
We make good time and speed until we get into the mountain roads. Here Waze got confused, didn’t function and took me the wrong way. I realised this on a dirt road which led to a farm with vicious dogs. Dead end. I turn around and use the old and trusted method in navigation: asking local people.
This worked and I quickly reach the beautiful and pampering mountain village of Saint-Martin-Vésubie. But on my way out I am warned not to continue to Madonna de la Fenestra as latest rains have washed away the road again. This road was recently rebuilt after the devastating storm Alex of 2021 created a one in a hundred year deluge that destroyed the area, washed, bridges, and half of the town away. It is late already and I’m tired. I decide to believe the local Vesubiens and park the car.
Edwards Park Hôtel
But this is the height of the summer. The village is full to the max with tourists. Where am I supposed to sleep now? I do the rounds with the kids, as expected all full. Tourists bask in garden restaurants for the evening meal. I’m starving and homeless. At last, one snobby hotel owner points me to Edwards Park Hôtel La Châtaigneraie smack in the centre of the village and says strangely “They always have room”.
I walk into the huge complex that is Edwards Park Hôtel La Châtaigneraie, with it’s vast gardens – a testament to a time when space was cheap. I climb up the stairs to the old hotel from the 19th century. Actually this was the first hotel built here. On the porch I find the hotel’s owners, their family and friends gathering joyfully for the evening apero cocktail hour or hours. They are quite drunk by now and super friendly.
The son offers us a quaint and spotless room with a renovated bath for 100 euros per night. Really an excellent price. We accept and I pull in my car into the complex. We unload our ‘apero’ and join them on the porch in this so cool and iconic structure. The old dining room, rickety wooden stairs, old carpets and abandoned pool. This is so much better than roughing it in a mountain refuge I think. At night there was even a live rock concert playing in town!
Col de Fenestre
For the next three days we hiked around the region. The first day we returned to the road leading to Madone de Fenestre (1900 meters). Parked the car where the road washed and hiked up to the refuge on foot (about 1.5 hours). From there we continued up and up until we got tired and said goodbye to Ibexes on our way down. This time we hitchhiked with some other people who ignored the signed and followed the broken road anyhow.
Another day, the hotel owner gave us a lift in his 4X4 all the way to Madone de Fenestre and from there we hiked up to Lac de Fenestre and Col de Fenestre at 2400 meters. Here we find a hardcore Belgium trekker who ran out of food so we give her a sandwich, and share the border between France and Italy together. On the Italian side we look down and find the old military and customs buildings from the time of WW2. Now they serve as a picnic area for trekkers and as I was told a shelter for Ibex.
A Sanctuary for Diverse Wildlife
Beyond its breathtaking vistas, Mercantour is a sanctuary for diverse wildlife, sheltering species such as chamois, ibex, marmots, and the elusive golden eagle. The park’s biodiversity is a result of its unique position, where the Mediterranean climate meets the alpine environment, fostering a rich tapestry of habitats and species.
My daughter could not be happier here. A lover of animals, here in the park they are unafraid. We are constantly greeted by the wails and chirps of marmots protecting their young. On the trail and everywhere we are surrounded by chamois and ibex. The park is spotless as no one in their right mind would think to litter or graffiti the limestone.
The only litter was the occasional complaining child alongside his parents on the way up. The next day we found the same kids happily playing around Lake Boreon where there are a lot more child friendly activities such as a Zoo and a climbing wall. But we of course climbed high above the lake in search of another lake, that we never found LOL…
