Haute Alpes

My playground for the last 15 years, the Haute Alps in Provence is a masterpiece. And yes, I was also in Chamonix, and other Alps in northern provinces. What is so special here? This may be due to the proximity of the Alps to Provence, giving them something more authentic and not too posh like for example in Chamonix or Mageve.

There is something real, more intimate here. Who will dare venture here? For starters, us lazy southerners who do not wish to travel too far, or encounter too many Parisians at ski resorts. Let them go to Val Thorens and leave Provence alone. Here are my big recommendations:

Gap:

Not just a global clothing chain! Whether you like it or not, all roads lead to Gap. This usually marks the half way point for me on a trip to the upper Alps. Napoleon traversed Gap when he returned to conquer France after his exile in Elba. Today this road is known as the famous “Route de Napoleon”. The town is big (the county capital), and here it’s a good place to refuel, find a good restaurant, or just stretch your legs. It’s beautiful and interesting but my eyes are usually set high on the mountains. So when I’m done with Gap, I continue on the winding road in the footsteps of Napoleon.

Briancon:

A UNESCO World Heritage Site, the fortified town is located at the confluence of five valleys and occupies an amazing geographical situation. The structure of these valleys has always offered the city relatively easy access to Provence, Queyras, Isere, and Italy. Briancon was a very important crossroads into the heart of the alpine massif. It offered the best conditions for the movement of soldiers, goods and the transfer of culture. The town is incredibly surrounded by walls. At its entrance we feel like extras on the set of the Game of Thrones. Lifting our heads we encounter two menacing fortresses protecting the road, the important work of Vauban – the celebrated military engineer responsible for all the important fortifications of his time.

You probably understand that it is impossible not to stop on the way and give Briancon and her father Vauban the respect they deserve. Beyond that, I even recommend spending the night in the area to enjoy and discover all that Briancon has to offer: restaurants with typical dishes from the area, hiking trails, wildlife, gushing rivers, a suspension bridge over a torrent, Serre Chevalier ski resort. But it’s enough and just to wander the city’s ancient alleyways and climb up to surrounding forts.

La Grave and Col du Lautret: Adventure rolls on

The main village of La Grave is located at an altitude of 1,500 meters on the right bank of the Upper Romanesque Valley, in the northern Haute Alps. It is located 10 km west of the most impressive Lautret mountain pass and about 35 km from Briancon. The road there is as it has always been – narrow, winding, carved in the rock face, through a series of old and strange tunnels. Although you will be tempted to take your eyes off the road and take in all the beauty around you, it is better not to.

Les Ecrins National Park

Les Ecrins National Park in the Alps covers a large part of the Ecrins Massifs. It is spread over the communes of two provinces: Isère and the Haute Alps in Provence. Many good hiking boots of mine gave their last breath on the excellent trails in the park. Barre des Ecrins is the summit and the highest point in the entire Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur region that reaches a “barre” at 4,101 meters. A jagged peak with a massive glacier clinging to the rockface with all its might, almost threatening to disengage and slide off from the mountain. A uniquely mystical mountain. You can climb to the cabin at Base Camp observe the mountain for many hours from the balcony, falling under its magical allure at sunset. There is nothing like it, really.

Queyras Regional Park

Those really looking to get off crowded trails are welcome to turn southeast from Briancon and enter the Queyras Regional Park which shares its border with Italy. The roads are narrow and winding and sometimes a landslide of one kind or redirects the one-way traffic. Why make an effort you ask? Ah! If only to get to see the summit pyramid of Mount Viso at sunset … and he who understands will understand.

You will not find foreigners here, and certainly not tourists, nor many French. Which means it’s cheaper and easier to rent cabins or throw a tent along the banks of the river. No one will bother you, and no park ranger will tell you to put out the fire. Still, we are not in India, and do not worry. Restaurants, cafes and supermarkets in full French tradition are waiting to pamper you.